Daf and I took the opportunity of a good weather outlook to leave Coed y Berclas for a couple of days sailing round part of the Anglesey coast – which is absolutely one of our favourite cruising grounds, with all it’s sandy beaches and sheltering coves. We sailed out of Holyhead on a favourable tide to take us to the west coast haven of Borth Wen at Rhoscolyn; a favourite water playground for both local families and visitors. Despite the fact that it is only about twelve miles to Rhoscolyn by sea, it should be remembered that a yacht achieving five knots is doing a good turn of speed. And who wants to rush to a destination anyway, especially with South Stack to gaze up at and admire.
The stunning lighthouse on the rock, which visitors can reach via the white suspension bridge, has been important to shipping for many a season and kept vessels off the fearful and beautiful rocks of both South and North Stack. As is true of all lighthouses around the British Isles, South Stack is no longer manned but it still guides and protects mariners today, many in small boats like our own.
The high cliffs which climb up vertically from the sea, and on which can be seen the zig-zag path from the bridge, support colonies of seabirds which arrive in Spring to breed. At the top of the cliff is Elin’s Tower, used as an observation post by the RSPB where visitors can watch TV monitors relaying pictures of young birds from cameras trained on their nests, or look out to sea to watch the movement of yachts and other vessels, or on a lucky day spot a dolphin or porpoise playing in the water. We arrived on just such a lucky day, and though we only enjoyed a brief sighting, it is always special to see a dolphin curve up near to the boat. On other outings round Anglesey, we have been accompanied by a school of dolphins surrounding the boat, swimming alongside or bobbing under the hull and popping up on the other side.
The cliff face itself is a wonder of tortured rock, evidence of upheavals of the earth as the island was forming. Holyhead Mountain, set a little way back from this section of the coast, which once vied with the Alps for grandure, has undergone massive changes over the millenia; but it is not far from the still terrific mountains of Snowdonia.
Climbers find the twists and folds in the rocks of Gogarth and the surrounding cliffs, irresistible and we usually see tiny figures battling with the challenge of selecting and completing the trickiest routes.
Following us into Gogarth bay was Menai III, Plas Menai’s sail training yacht from the Menai Strait. Plas Menai is the National Watersports Centre for Wales with it’s base on the shores of the Menai Strait near Port Dinorwic (Felinheli). Their yachts are often seen sporting enthusiastic students at all times of year. Look at their website at www.plasmenai.co.uk. Make two weeks of it… book our Holiday Cottage at Coed y Berclas and sail climb or Sea Kayak at Plas Menai!
Leaving the bay, bathed in sunlight, we sailed south west along the coast and soon reached the Rhoscolyn beacon, once a warning to shipping and a welcome guide to the safe haven of the bay.
Even before we entered, there was evidence of much activity on the water with people fishing from small boats, tending their lobster pots, sailing dinghies, or steering small powerboats and canoes towards the bay.
Once inside, there were already yachts swinging gently at anchor, and a number of people, young and old, taking advantage of the sandy beach and clear water of the bay to enjoy whatever form of watersport took their fancy.
Once the anchor was safely bedded in, Daf and I stripped off several layers – it never fails to amaze me just how much cooler it is at sea than in a sunny, sheltered bay!- and settled down to a little gentle sunbathing while catching up with the day’s paper. Even the news can’t demoralise you when you relax this well. It is the most wonderful feeling to be in the middle of all this activity and fun.
After a good night’s sleep, we breakfasted and set off to catch the north-bound stream to take us back to Holyhead. It has to be said that the tides are not always this kind and as time and tide await no man, one sometimes has to be up horribly early or miss the tide which will carry you safely round the stacks.
The day was overcast but the sailing was good and although we had the engine running as we pulled up the anchor, it was not engaged as we sailed off the mooring, out of the bay and all the way back into Holyhead Harbour, with only the sound of the wind in the rigging and the seabirds to accompany us. There we passed the ferries waiting to take another load of passengers off to Dublin.
From time to time we were overflown by helicopters and a plane from the RAF base at Valley (Y Fali) two miles away where Prince William is stationed on Air Sea Rescue duties.
Tied up alongside at the pontoons was one of the training tall ships with a crew of teenage sailors up in the rigging, learning how to fold a sail and stow it safely.
This also acted as a reminder for us that the Old Gaffers Association Festival would be taking place in the harbour from 26th – 29th August. We went along last year and thoroughly enjoyed the day. We even made a length of rope which has since turned into a skipping rope and is used regularly, contributing to our health and fitness.
See you there next weekend – watch out for the Sea Battle of Holyhead Harbour (with cannon).
Dorothy
pTied up alongside at the pontoons was one of the training tall ships with a crew of teenage sailors up in the rigging, learning how to fold a sail and stow it safely.
